Reassess Your Chess
Reassess Your Chess doesn't give any advice on how to reach a reliable twenty-move midgame. There is a connection from the opening to the middle game, but, Reassess doesn't even attempt to /5. Apr 16, · If your pieces stay out of balance, the opponent may be able to launch a successful counter-attack. Material advantage usually proves decisive. Go to rule one. Rule Three: Take material if you cannot see a reason not to. This puts pressure on your opponent to justify his sacrifice.
Imagine, if you will, a man named 'Silman' enters tk home, duct tapes you to a chair and precedes to give you a thorough trepanning. He then pours hot lightening through the aforementioned hole in your head and into your skull. Producing a cork from a pocket in his jeans, he rams it home to stop your noggin from leaking, and then gives what does the bible say about giving up head a thorough shaking for good measure.
Sauntering towards the door, and just before he disappears into the night, he gives you a quick wave that says, "Have fun!. If you've ever had a look around for a good chess book, you've undoubtably run across at least a mention of this book.
And, if you've also looked at reviews of this book, it's highly unlikely that what does prima donna mean in english ever read anything negative.
I'm here to tell you that whatever reaseess previously read about How To How to reassess your chess review Your Chess, it was likely not glowing enough. For the most part, Reassess Your Chess is about strategy in the middle game so, strictly speaking, this isn't really a book for the lower rated beginners among us.
However, I consider myself a beginner and I gained quite a bit of useful information from my first time through Reassess Your Chessso I figure there are plenty of other chess beginners that would benefit from this book. This book isn't entirely devoid of tactics, though. Somewhat strangely, and seemingly out of place, is the section at the beginning of the book which details some endgame theory.
This info is both interesting and helpful, but despite Silman's words to the contrary, I'm not convinced it should be in this book, particularly since Silman has an entire and excellent book devoted to the endgame. Another tactical section of Reassess Your Chess contains some outstanding words about counting, calculation and combinations. The rest of this book is dedicated to the Silman thinking technique.
In short, this method is about reassesz how to recognize them, how to create them, and how to capitalize on them. It's a bit hard to summarize this without basically recounting the entire book, but I'll try to give you a feel for it by way yoour example. Let's say what should baby wear to bed with fever are playing a game in which your opponent has the only half-open file, while you have spied the perfect outpost for one of your knights, deep in enemy territory.
The board itself is telling you what to do! You must maneuver one of your knights to that permanent outpost so as to harass your enemy while you shutdown his rook play on the half-open file! This is obviously a brutal oversimplification, but you get the idea. Silman covers so many forms of imbalances and how to approach them that I'm tempted to say that he covers everything anyone could ever need out of a middlegame text.
That would probably be incorrect, but I can say with confidence that this book will enlighten you like very few others, and you will come back to How To Reassess Your Chess for many years to come. I should add that although this book is mostly about imbalances in he middle game, the last section is called "Using Imbalances In Every Phase Of The Game.
In particular, Silman shows the importance of creating opening imbalances that can by nurtured in revview middlegame as well as preparing imbalances to be used in the endgame. He really does cover all the bases. As with all good chess books, at least in my opinion, there are some good exercises for the reader, and the solutions to the problems are also great. My usual complaint is that there are too few for my tastes, but there is a workbook full of related exercises, so the general dearth of chess problems is rectified elsewhere.
I have that book, and after I finish my first pass through Silman's Endgame Course I'll get right on that workbook! Beyond all of the chessy goodness that Silman conveys, I what to eat to gain mass muscle his writing style. You have to like a guy who offers up phrases like "and now the Bishop breathes fire down the a1-h8 diagonal!
I consider myself rfassess beginner, and I write these articles for other beginners. Of course, the what is a business environment 'beginner' is a bit subjective. Currently I'm rated about here on Chess. Since I found this book quite readable, anyone ranked about my level should do OK by this book. I'm certainly not claiming that I completely absorbed everything in this book; far from it. But, as Silman himself states, this book should be reread rreassess six months to acquire the most benefit, and I corroborate this statement.
I'll take a wild guess and say that if you are ranked more than a couple hundred points less than I, this book might be a bit much for you, depending on your reasssss, of course. Should you buy this book? What, you haven't ordered your copy yet?!?!?
Seriously, though, if you plan to stick with chess jour a significant part of your future, How To Reassess Your Chess is almost a necessity. It's one of those books that every chess player should own, in my estimation. That's a wrap! I'm Stick, your resident wordslinger, and I'll see y'all out there on the gridiron! Nov 24,AM. My usual hyperbole aside, that's pretty much the take-away from my first reading of Jeremy Silman's excellent book, How To Reassess Your Chess.
Now we get down to the real nitty-gritty: should you read this book? More from menofsticks. Articles For Beginners. Opening Theory. Amazing Games. Chess Players. Study Plans. Curriculum for Kids.
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Jan 10, · Thus enters Jeremy Silman with another masterpiece in "Reassess Your Chess". The basis for the book is learning how to assess imbalances in the game. Not simply one player having a better position or material (although those are imbalances) but particularly in games that are quite even where one player's positional strengths and weaknesses represent the other players weaknesses and /5. How to Reassess Your Chess is the popular step-by-step course that will create a marked improvement in anyone's game. In clear, direct language, Silman shows how to dissect a position, recognize its individual parts and ultimately find the move that conforms to /5(49). How to Reassess Your Chess is the popular step-by-step course that will create a marked improvement in anyone's game. In clear, direct language, Silman shows how to dissect a position, recognize its individual parts and ultimately find the move that conforms to /5().
The author writes in a very easy to understand style and provides information for players who long to escape the constraints of Class E — Expert. I highly recommend his books for anyone who is under the expert class.
Bishop: Good, Bad, Active — Bad Bishops must be solved by trading it, making it good by getting it outside the pawn chain or opening lines, or making it active and useful. Bishops love open positions and are better in endgames with pawns on both sides of the board. Knights: Need advanced support points to be effective. Knights are useful in closed positions. Knights are the best blockaders of passed pawns.
Knights are usually superior to the bishop in an ending with pawns on one side of the board. Is the position open or closed and which piece will be superior? Are there support points for the minor pieces? Can his pieces get there? Does it matter if they do? Plan around these questions. Two Bishops: The Bishop pair can be amazingly strong.
To combat, create a blocked position, create advanced support points for your Knights to triumph, trade off one or both of the opponents Bishops to obtain a more manageable ending. The side with less space should initiate exchanges. The side with more space should avoid exchanges.
If you have more space, find good outposts for your pieces, find a target and exploit it, or plan a possible breakthrough. Doubled Pawns: Gives you an open file for Rooks, if they are central pawns you get central control, they can be used as backup control for squares, or can be battering rams against the enemy structure. These pawns have the tendency to be weak if they become targets.
Isolated Pawns: Gives you two open files for Rooks, the square in front of these pawns are most important, can be used as a post for pieces, can also be battering rams against the enemy structure, and can make pieces very active with open lines. These pawns also have the tendency to be weak if they become targets. Retain a Rook and a Queen to battle and win the pawn. Backward Pawns: Is it on an open file? How well is it defended?
Is the square in front of it defended? Is it serving a useful purpose defending pawns, squares, pieces, etc. Can it successfully advance? Passed Pawns: If it can be blockaded it is weak unless there is other play on the board. The most important square is the square directly in front of the passer. These pawns should be used as endgame insurance and should be pushed when possible!
Knights are the best blockaders of these pawns. Is a penetration along the file possible for either player? Would it even be worth attempting to control or penetrate the file? Can I afford to take the time to control the file or is there more important play elsewhere? If I penetrate the open file does it work with the rest of my pieces and imbalances? Do certain factors in the position call for me to retain at least one Rook? If so, I might want to avoid the heavy exchanges and the file.
Rule One: If you have a material advantage, find a plan that allows you to use the extra wood trading, attacks, etc. Rule Two: When you make a successful strike into the opponents camp and win material, you must often pull your forces back out towards the center reorganize.
The reason is that after you fulfill a plan your pieces can often find themselves out of balance and no longer working together. If your pieces stay out of balance, the opponent may be able to launch a successful counter-attack. Material advantage usually proves decisive. Go to rule one. Rule Three: Take material if you cannot see a reason not to. This puts pressure on your opponent to justify his sacrifice. This induces a certain element of panic sometimes that can send your opponents brain spinning!
Rule Four: When material up, you have the added defensive resource of giving it back if needed to stop an attack. While the opponent scrambles to get the material back, you can often quietly improve your position. You can equalize a difficult position this way, grab the initiative, or gain another advantage such positional pluses. Learn to recognize the imbalances and acquire a sense of which will be the dominant imbalance to hold.
Never give up! Defend as if your life were hanging in the balance. Fight back with counter strikes! Candidate moves are the key to choosing our path in any given game and finding these moves to decide which is the optimal idea for our personal goal is where a players style can emerge.
Silman has a systematic approach to finding each move. Updated: Apr 16, , PM. Rules of the Minor pieces Bishop: Good, Bad, Active — Bad Bishops must be solved by trading it, making it good by getting it outside the pawn chain or opening lines, or making it active and useful.
Rules of Space Advantage The side with less space should initiate exchanges. Rules of Pawn Structure Doubled Pawns: Gives you an open file for Rooks, if they are central pawns you get central control, they can be used as backup control for squares, or can be battering rams against the enemy structure.
Rules of Open Files Is a penetration along the file possible for either player? Rules of Material Rule One: If you have a material advantage, find a plan that allows you to use the extra wood trading, attacks, etc. Three Keys to Success 1. All Blogs. Top Bloggers.